When it comes to boarding one of the things I have been playing with is the degree angle of the bindings on the board. I've listened to what various people have said and experimented around with several combos. The last combo I used was the following:
- The right foot had a 25* outward position
- The left foot had a 0* position.
When using that combo I found it harder to turn or manipulate my right side. Does anyone have any combinations that are optimal for me as a rider moving into the intermediate stage focused for better turning/stopping?
Isn't it great to have your own equipment! :-)
You are just going to have to experiment with which positions work best for you. On a trip to Utah last month, I observed a wide variety of setup positions used by the advanced riders that varied not only by angles, but also by distance between feet. Some riders rode "duck", some had their leading foot angled slightly inwards, and some had a very wide stance.
I brought my new board which had a longer side cut and is stiffer than my previous board. The angles I used on my previous board did not work as well on the new board, so I spent the first day of my trip experimenting and finetuning the angles.
There is no one best way. It's all a matter of preference and comfort. As long as you can maintain proper balance between both feet and a good stance, you're OK.
IMHO- The gap of 25 between the angles may be too much. You may want to increase the angle of your left foot.
So, always bring your binding tool with you and don't be afraid to try different settings.
Most of the time, I ride "regular" with 15+ deg, 0 deg, with 18" stance. I do change the binding setup depending on where I am riding. If I am going to ride deep powder out west, my setup would be something like 20+ 5-, with 18" stance. Unless I plan to hit the park for the day then my set up would be like 5+, 5+ with 20" stance.
Since I ride at places out here in WV, MD, and PA whereas I set up my binding different since there's no big mountains and no powder to deal with. When I ride the hills around here, my board setup would be a simple one like 15+, 0 with 19" stance.
Did you do the stance jump test method? I use the stance jump test method more than the shoulder stance method. Some snowboarders have their own way of measuring the stance according to their body size. You don't want to stand too wide and hurt your legs and your back. You don't want to have a very narrow stance to hurt your ability to turn and stop. What I do is have a friend help me with the measurement on the stance. I would place both feet on the floor as normal as you feel comfy standing up then take a jump as high as you can. When you land on the floor, have your friend take the measurement. Repeat that jump a few times until you see the same pattern of where your feet land as comfy as possible. When you land on the floor, do land in a different way like bend your knees a little more and less until you are comfy to do either way when landing. Normally you would not jump off the picnic table with your feet sticking out too wide to land on the ground, right? Same goes for not having your feet stick too close together for landing. I hope you get my drift by now. Jumping off the picnic table was just an example to give you an idea why you need to figure the stance measurement. My legs are short and I don't have narrow hip. Your body may be built different than mine. Anyway, once you know your stance measurement then hopefully you would feel more comfy and able to strengthen your legs in a healthy way instead of straining your muscle in a weird way when bending your knees.
The shoulder stance method didn't work for me as it was too wide for my legs and got tired of cramps in my legs.
Sorry for rambling on. Any questions.. let me know.
1. For the best stance width, measure from the ground up to your knee... the middle of your knee if you're going to be riding park more, the bottom if you're going to freeride. Set this as the width between the centers of the bindings.
2. To determine binding placement, look down on your board, if its closer to a twin-tip design, meaning the sidecut length on the front and back is equal, then mount them an equidistant area from the tip of the nose and tail. If it is not, and the nose-end sidecut is longer, you'll want to mount them so there's a bit more space between the front binding and the nose in comparison to rear binding to the tail, in order to make the board maximize its response.
3. Binding angles are all preference. Good beginning degrees would be 15° in the front and 0° or maybe 3° in the back. If you're riding park or switch sometimes you'll probably enjoy a duck stance better, set it at like 15°, 18°, or 12° in the front and -3° or -6° in the back.
Right now I'm riding 15° front and -6° and a 20" stance. It works for me.
Oh, and check them everytime before you go riding, as well as the nuts on the strap bolts.
Just don't take the bindings off then put the screws in and tighten them.
In response to Bawalker... to make the board more usable in both directions, try turning ur bindings so they both face outward. I am switching mine to a -15,15 stance. The salesman that helped me purchase my first board was from the X-games.. and he suggested a -15,0 stance for starters, and said that he was at a -15,6 (if i remember right). Correct me if im wrong about the -15,15
Ok sorry to invade -- a skier that it is just curious... Which is better straps or clip-ins for boarding?
I guess I am just surprised that straps seem to be holding their own in boarding. In fact, it seems, from the distance of a chair lift, that the system is winning...
This just surprises me... I ski, I cycle, in both cases I love the clip-in style connection to equipement... no fuss, no muss, fast, convenient, solid. I just can't imagine fiddling with all the strap stuff all time and seems hopelessly FLEXY.
No back to our regularly scheduled program...
They freeze-up, jam, and give pretty much no support. When you ride w/ step-ins, you're relying all on the boot for support, meaning the boots have to be pretty stiff and that makes them harder to ride in.
Straps aren't a big hassle, and they hold your foot in the binding much better IMO than a step-in system does. Plus, if a strap breaks or bends, all you have to do is send that part back, not try to fix the whole binding. Which reminds me, I have to go buy a new buckle-piece (w/ ridges) for my toe strap, it shattered in the arctic temperatures MLK Day.
By duck stance, we in the industry mean put a negative angle on the rear binding. Try a -3 or -6 in the back and 15 or so in the front. Once you feel confident riding this way, widen your stance a bit more, 20.5-21.5 inches wide. It doesn't have to be superwide. And you can judge this by measuring from the ground up to between the middle and top of your kneecap (while standing).
Forward lean is a touchy issue. Some like it, others hate it. I favor it more on the back foot than the front, since it definately helps initiate toeside turns. This is really up to you. Go riding, and play with the settings until you like how it feels. Don't be afraid to try something different.
Generally we go by a 18-25° difference between binding angles. So if you have 15° in the front and -3 or -6 in the back, you're in good shape. That ensures to take pressure off of the knees.
I've never had good fortune with Flows. I know some people with them and have few complaints. The thing I like about strap-ins is that you can tighten them more or less depending on how your boots are performing and if they're loosening or not. I've seen Flows come in with torn cables and broken parts though, making me not rely on just 2 cables to hold a foot in a binding. Whereas, if you bust a binding on a strap-in, its generally fixable, as long as you have some shoelace and duct tape. More on that later.
And yeah, ice gets stuck in the clip-ins, and even though you're all set and ready to go, you still gotta wait for your board buddies to strap-in anyways!
as for binding angles, they do make a difference. I started with 15 and 0, and changed to 21 and -3 which makes carving easier.
As for Flow bindings, I got a set this year and so far so good. I remember talking to the service tech at a board shop and he told me Flow had one year where their bindings weren't so hot but that they've remedied this. So far I love my new bindings, the support and control of straps and the ease of step ins. I even find them pretty tight. If they're too loose just click them in one notch with your foot out of the binding and it makes all the difference. I had a set of Ride EX before and I really was not overly impressed. They felt flimsy and did eventually end up buckling at the base plate. I'm done with Ride bindings.
Also, i got clicker bindings.. and I like them. Yes, i wish it was easier to strap up the boots firmly (so i just use large tub clamps around the top of the boot... lol), but i really like the ease of getting in and out of the bindings quickly.. and not having the straps dangling form the board. I have only had them jam up once (with ice), and it was about 30-35 degrese F out anyways. They both have their advantages and disavantages.. plus, i got mine cheap
If you think of pointing the binding towards the nose, thats positive, and the opposite of positive, is negative.
A duck stance is a positive degree in the front and a negative in the back.
I currently have -3 at the back and +15 at the front. With a +15 your toes are pointing more towards the natural direction of a heel-side turn. Going from a toe-side turn to a heel-side turn, your toes are already pointing more towards the heel-side turn, which makes it easier to turn into?
Theoretically, would decreasing the angle on the front binding make it easier to initiate the toe-side turn?
I'm new to this forum and to boarding in general. I currently have my bindings set at +21, 0. Would you consider this a good setup for a beginner? The shop where I got my board initially set me up with a +15, +3 setup and I had lots of trouble turning. Should my new setup help me out?
npbassman, that sounds like a lot of front angle. Play with it a bit and see how you feel. I always like 0 15 and I tend to set up boards for my friends that way as a starting point. 21 degrees up front sounds kind of unbalanced.
I know a lot has been covered in this thread and it's been helpful but I have a couple of other questions for anyone reading this.
First - as a beginner, what are the pros or cons to having a 0 on the back foot as opposed to slightly positive, like a 3? Would linking turns be easier? I've also found that when I stand normally I have the 'duck' stance. Should I experiment with this setting or wait until I strengthen my fundamentals?
Lastly, what difference would I feel if I were to shorten my stance?
Thanks for being patient with my newbie questions everyone!
Bumps, nice to know where they are so I can avoid them. Moguls on a board suck especially when your weapon of choice is a 168.
Condition of the terrain park, are the hits icy, soft, big, small, how many, rails etc.
I keep hearing "do what is right for you". But, what about the physics? What theoretically should a -3, +15 stance do for you as opposed to a +3, +21 stance?
Forward lean is a touchy thing. I like it. Some hate it, but it does help initiate toeside turns. Once you're comfortable with your stance width, binding angles, etc. try playing with the forward lean. It can make a big difference between being on the trail or in the trees.
I tried the +15, 0 setup and it was like night and day! Much easier to learn.
I also found this article online.
the mounting holes for the bindings are not equidistant from the nose and tail of the board there is more room towars the nose then the tail 18 vs 19 inchs
i don't see any difference be tween the front and rear cut but there could be a little bit
will this effect the my ability to ride backwars at all
ii've currently got a setup or 15, -15 and a 19.5 inch stance
any other tips would be great