To quote Charles Dickens, “It was the best of times; it was the worst of times.” That sums up my experiences skiing West Virginia’s Canaan Valley and Timberline Resorts during the Christmas weekend. Weather and snow conditions proved excellent, and there were no lift lines. But limited snowmaking at both resorts and a lack of natural snow translated into very meager terrain offerings at what is ordinarily the Mid-Atlantic’s snowiest ski region.

I arrived at Timberline on the afternoon of December 24, 2004 and managed to get in four runs on White Lightning before the lifts closed for the day. Despite the fact that this was a holiday weekend, Timberline did not offer night skiing either on the 24th or the 25th. It also did not open until 11 a.m. on the 25th and failed to notify customers of this change of schedule on its snow report. When I called the snow phone at 10 a.m., I received the report from 24 December. Frustrated, I decided to walk down to the lodge to see what was going on. There, I met another disillusioned customer, but not a single Timberline staff member. Instead of waiting around for something to happen, I headed over to Canaan Valley.

Timberline Resort over the holiday weekend. Photo provided by John Sherwood.

Not only was Canaan Valley open, but it had parking lot attendants in place to direct traffic and plenty of ticket booth personnel on hand to keep lines short. Furthermore, tickets were only $25. I made ten quick runs on the only top-to-bottom evolution open: Canaan Curve-Chute-Valley Vista-Face. Canaan Curve takes the skier from the top station of the quad chair to a short black diamond steep called Chute. From there, the run turns into a gentle blue called Valley Vista until it hits a lower black diamond headwall called Face. The entire run covers 750 feet of vertical and no section of it is steeper than the two headwalls of Upper White Lightning. In short, any confident intermediate should be able to handle it with ease.

Blue skies, low crowds, and firm snow made for an enjoyable experience but after ten runs, I was ready to head back to Timberline. Canaan Valley added two 5-million gallon water reservoirs this season, but I did not see any dramatic improvement in snowmaking. Some guns were going but the snow base at the resort was lower than Timberline’s and it had far less terrain open - just the one run mentioned, a small section of Lower Timber, and some beginner terrain on the righthand side of the mountain (Bunny Buster, Sissy Schuss, and B Slope). Am I missing something?

Canaan Valley Resort over the holiday weekend. Photo provided by John Sherwood.

Timberline not only offered more vertical with White Lightning (1,000 versus 850 feet) but by Sunday, it also opened its 2.5-mile beginner run, Salamander. People often say that Herz Mountain (Timberline) skis bigger than Weiss Knob (Canaan Valley), and I must confess that on Saturday, it did. In fairness to Canaan Valley, when the entire mountain is open, its breadth can make up for its lesser vertical but in a limited terrain environment, Timberline proved to be the better bet.

Timberline, however, was not without its problems. When I left Washington on the 24th, the resort’s snow report claimed that Dew Drop would open on the 27th. Not only did Timberline not open that trail on the day promised, but the web site now claims that it will not open until January 3, 2005.

Timberline has made great strides with its new web site, which includes one of the region’s best web cams and photo galleries, but the site’s snow report should not promise what the resort cannot deliver. I witnessed Mountain Operations working diligently in very cold weather throughout the weekend to make more snow. Guns were blazing, and groomers were working overtime preparing slopes and moving equipment around the mountain. I applaud these Herculean efforts, and only request that the web report not raise hopes to levels that the resort cannot fulfill.

Another shot of Timberline from the holiday weekend. Photo provided by John Sherwood.
Another shot of Canaan Valley from the holiday weekend. Photo provided by John Sherwood.